Sardenaira, the Italian Focaccia from Sanremo
Let's enjoy the Italian Sanremo Festival week with a delicious local specialty: a richly seasoned focaccia topped with tomato sauce, Taggiasca olives, garlic, capers, and sardines—unlike the "pissalandrea," which is distinguished by its use of anchovies.
In some cases, sardines, garlic, and capers are blended together and spread onto the soft, spongy dough as a sauce, also known as "macchettu." Though it is an ancient preparation, the modern version of "Sardenaira" only became possible after the discovery of the Americas and the introduction of tomatoes to Italy.
Sardenaira: The History and Tradition of Sanremo’s Focaccia
Sardenaira dates back to around 1500, though its origins are much older. Typical of western Liguria and particularly Sanremo, this focaccia is a true celebration of flavor, made with just a few ingredients yet capable of surprising and delighting anyone who tastes it.
The Origins of Sardenaira
The history of Sardenaira stretches back centuries. While today it is one of the most beloved specialties of western Liguria, its roots are even more ancient. Its direct ancestor is the "machetusa," an old Ligurian inland focaccia (from Val Nervia, Dolceacqua, Apricale, and Isolabona) covered with "machetu"—a mixture of anchovies left to marinate in oil and salt throughout the summer. This method of preserving fish is reminiscent of the ancient Roman "garum," a fermented anchovy paste stored in amphorae and spread on bread.
With the discovery of the Americas and the introduction of tomatoes to Europe, Sardenaira began to evolve: "machetu" was gradually replaced with tomatoes, shaping the recipe we know today.
It was likely the French who brought this dish to Liguria. Popular in Provence and Nice, it later arrived in the region and was named after its main ingredient: salted fish, or peis salat in the local dialect.
Spread and Local Variations
Sardenaira is most commonly found in the province of Imperia, with variations depending on the location. In Oneglia, it is called "pissalandrea," named after Admiral Andrea Doria, who adored the anchovy-based condiment known as "pissala." This version of the focaccia is distinct for its addition of onions. Beyond Capo Berta, however, Sardenaira becomes increasingly rare, nearly disappearing around Diano Marina and Cervo.
In different towns, it goes by different names: in Apricale, it remains "machetusa"; in Badalucco, it’s called "sardenaia"; and in Taggia, it takes the name "figazza."
The Traditional Recipe for Sardenaira
Sardenaira is made with a dough similar to that of focaccia. After rising, the base is topped with tomato sauce, Taggiasca olives in brine, raw garlic cloves, capers, and sardines preserved in oil or salt.
Dough Ingredients:
400 g flour
150 ml milk
15 g fresh brewer’s yeast
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 pinch of salt
Topping Ingredients:
2 onions
1 kg peeled tomatoes
80 g sardines in oil
100 g Taggiasca olives
50 g desalted capers
4 garlic cloves
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed
Preparation:
Dissolve the yeast in warm milk. Pour it into a stand mixer with a dough hook along with the flour, oil, and salt. Mix on low speed until a smooth, homogeneous dough forms—about 20 minutes. If you don’t have a stand mixer, knead by hand.
Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a cloth, and let it rise in a warm place for about 3 hours, or until it doubles in volume.
Meanwhile, prepare the topping: thinly slice the onions and sauté them in a pan with a drizzle of oil until golden. Add the crushed peeled tomatoes and cook on low heat for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Then, add the chopped sardines and cook for a few more minutes.
Once the dough has risen, divide it into two portions if using rectangular baking trays or into four if using 30 cm round pans. Gently stretch the dough to fit the trays.
Evenly spread the sauce over the dough, then add the Taggiasca olives, capers, and whole garlic cloves.
Bake in a preheated static oven at 180°C for about 30 minutes (or 210°C for 24 minutes). After 15 minutes, rotate the trays for even cooking.
Remove from the oven, let cool slightly, and serve warm or at room temperature.
Enjoy your Sardenaira! 🍕✨